Phil Moore's Travel Adventures...

Haere mai! Yet again, I'm back in Aotearoa, I just couldn't stay away, such is the draw of this green and pleasant land. How only a 6 month stay in a country can create such attachment I don't know.

Anyhow, this is a fleeting visit for only 1 month to see some friends (specifically Heike) and fill in the gaps that I missed on my previous visit, a short stay partly because there's a whole world afresh out there to be explored but mostly down to NZ Immigration who weren't playing ball at all by initially refusing entry into the country as no record of my working visa could be found, further they had not seen or heard of an electronic visa document before and practically accused me of falsifying an official document - not a great start. To rub salt into the wounds they then flatly refused to extend my work visa as apparently once you have the visa beit for 6, 12 or whatever months it cannot be extended. Bah humbug! I took this as an omen that it was time to make this the final goodbye (for the time being atleast) and set about enjoying myself instead.

So I lived in a campervan for the first 3 weeks, back to the familiar ground of sleeping where you choose, but seemingly no matter where you park you awake in the glare of the midday sun, the van super-heated such that you can feel your fat slowly bubbling under the skin, internal combustion just around the corner.

We kick off with a bang with the usual hedonism of Auckland at the Fat Camel; times have changed and there are many new faces but still the same old antics. To my dismay spanking has become a faux pas which used to be the bread and butter of a good session in the bar - bringing the old world to the new it seems has its challenges, times change and the rules of engagement with it. I feel like a relic of the past despite the fact it was only 3 months ago - how fickle the hostel lifestyle is. (I'm sure there's a valuable metaphor in there somewhere.)

What better way to celebrate your arrival with a mash-up of Brazilian junglistic beats courtesy of DJ Marky and some melodic vocal tones of the UK's own Stamina MC. Before you question it, I'm proud to say Auckland is a leader in the southern hemisphere for drum and bass with low frequency rumblings coming from clubs like Fubar, 4:20 and The Studio cranking out the wibbly-wobbly, poo-tish rhythms on a weekly basis, attracting big name DJs like Marky, Andy C, Ed Rush & Optical as well the local talent. The kiwis go mad for it and the party rocks on till the early hours, so much energy generated from Marky like I'd never seen before - this guy truly loves his dnb and was dancing harder than anyone in the club and performing gravity defying scratch antics that bamboozled the glazed onlookers

Perhaps the readily available supply of legal party pills caught him by suprise

I needed some quick cash to fund the next couple of weeks ventures and luck would have it I stumbled across a job prepping a yacht The Irishman for charter - scrubbing the decks, loading boxes, erm eating pizza & drinking beer.

The Irishman, picture courtesy of http://www.centralyachtagent.com

The Irishman like many others docked in Auckland harbour is registered to the Marshall Islands- a little known archipelago about 2,500kms north-east of Papua New Guinea. It has an interesting history that I thought appropriate to share...

Initially occupied by the Micronesians and since governed by Spain, Germany, Britain and Japan, they eventually became a U.S. trust territory after WWII. In their wisdom, the U.S. conducted a total of 23 atomic and hydrogen bomb tests between 1946 and 1958 on the islands of Bikini and Eniwetok (the inhabitants were generously relocated to another island first). Despite cleanup attempts, the islands remain uninhabited today because of nuclear contamination.

In 1986, the United States and the Marshall Islands signed a Compact of Free Association, which meant the islands became self-governing but would receive U.S. military and economic aid, roughly $65 million a year. In return for this support the region hosts a large US military base which allegedly still conducts weapons testing in the area, and the islands have become a tax free haven with an unknown number of US individuals & businesses (including the Irishman's yacht charter holding company) hosting their accounts here. I wonder if the local people with a per capita income of $1,600 see much of this benefit. Keep an eye out for this flag:

The job on the irishman led on to bigger and better things as I embarked on a short-lived career as a maritimer, working for Global Yacht Finishers sanding, painting etc. It was hard work but very rewarding being outside on the harbour and working on some truly magnificant boats including the pride of Team NZs race fleet NZ41, and the America's Cup competitor BMW Oracle. I felt truly part of the City of Sails for the first time.

NZ41 & 42, picture courtesy of http://www.sailnz.co.nz

BMW Oracle, picture courtesy of http://bmworacleracing.com

For any traveller needing some quick cash on arrival in Auckland, I'd recommend trying the docks (no hello sailor euphemism implyed) - simply walk around, ask anyone and everyone for casual work and you'll find something will turn up if you're persistent, plus most of the work is cash in hand, no questions asked, wink wink, nudge nudge, know what I mean, say no more etc etc.

So on to the travel......

Raglan

Nestled on the Waikato coast west of Hamilton, tiny Raglan has achieved legendary status as a surf mecca. Ever since Manu Bay featured in the 1966 surfing movie classic Endless Summer, surfers have made a beeline for Raglan’s south breaks with their perfect peelers and long joyrides. Just 8km from Raglan, Manu Bay is claimed to be longest left-hand break in the world, where on the right day when the breaks are linking up, you can cruise for up to 2km. Neighbouring Whale Bay, once a peaceful sanctuary for Maori warriors, also boasts a fine left-hand point break with great hollow waves. Head a kilometre offshore and you’ll find The Indicators, another superb left-hand point break that serves up the area’s largest barrels. Besides the excellent surfing Raglan has breathtaking scenery and dramatic coastline with some great fush and chups shops in town making it a top place to visit.

Piha

Just north of Auckland in the Waitakere Ranges is another beautiful surf town called Piha. A 10 minute drive to south of Piha brings you to Karekare Beach, New Zealand, where 'The Piano' directed by Jane Campion and winner of the Prix d'Or at the Cannes Film Festival was filmed. The surf was cranking on the day of my visit with even some barrels up for grabs. There's a nice little trek onto the rocky point towards the Piha end of the beach where you can soak yourself in the waves that erupt through a gully. If you do visit here, beware of sandal thieves as some desperate sole (hee hee) stole mine that I left outside the van whilst taking an afternoon nap - I do pity the thief as they smelt worse than a stagnent pond.

Taranaki

Next up a visit to one of New Zealand's most understated and consequently under visited regions - Taranaki. It's curious as to how it has reached this position as the enigmatic images of the region dominated by a forbading dormant volcano Mount Taranaki (or Mount Egmont if you refer to it by it's given name by the imperialist European invaders) are iconic to New Zealand. Even the dizzy heights of Tom Cruise coming to town in 2003 to film The Last Samurai (in which Mt Taranaki stood in as a stunt double for Mount Fuji) was not enough to put the place on the map. (Incidently, Mr Cruise did a lot of good in his 4 months stay, raising $14,000 for a local school shelter and a donation to an Auckland youth drug charity, such that he was adorned with the loving title Tominaki.)

Warnings cast aside, I headed off to New Plymouth trying my hand at hitch hiking which turned out to be a breeze and a great way to meet local people. En route south from Auckland I passed through Te Kuiti which is the self-proclaimed sheep shearing capital of New Zealand. To prove this point if the constant stream of sheep transporters passing down through wasn't enough, they have constructed the world's largest shearer - a seven metre high monument depicting what I think is a man decapitating a sheep with some kind of medieval torture device.

Just opposite the petrol station on the junction is Te Tokanganui-A-Noho marae which has some stunning carvings on the facade.

Heading further south, I caught a ride with some young surfers from Tauranga to the next main town en route and the base for my stay - New Plymouth. Rumoured to be a troublesome town with problems with alcholics and an active division of the Mongrel Mob, I found New Plymouth to an attractive, laid back and friendly town. All over town can be found work by Len Lye, a local artist who made his name creating kinetic sculptures. The highlights include the infamous Wind Wand - a 45m lamp post that bends and sways in the breeze. Well worth a visit to the Govett-Brewster Art Gallery where you can find more of his creations. warning - do not attend the sound exhibit with a hangover!

January marks the annual Festival of Light and the town becomes alive at night with free concerts in the park and a dazzling array of fairy lights, lazers and displays adorning the local park. (Not that they forgot to take the Christmas decorations down as I first thought.)

and now for the real reason I came.....

Mehema koe ka tuoho, meinga ki te maunga tetei.

If you should bow to greatness, let it be to a lofty mountain

Standing at an impressive 2,518m, the volcano of Mount Taranaki dominates the entire region and is visible on a clear day (which is rare) from as far away as Tongariro National park in the east and Waitotara in the south. The peak is seemingly always shrouded in cloud however this tends to hang on one side meaning if it's hidden from the north, the chaps in the south have a clear view. The last evidence of volcanic activity on the mountain occurred around 1755, more than 250 years ago.

I was always enjoy the Maori version of the shaping of land, Mount Taranaki's is a sad yet romantic tale....

Te Maunga o Taranaki (Mount Taranaki) once lived in the centre of New Zealand's North Island with other mountain gods: Tongariro, Ruapehu and Ngauruhoe. Nearby stood the lovely maid Pihanga with her cloak of deep green bush, and all the mountain gods were in love with her.

What had been a long, peaceful existence for the mountain gods was disturbed when Taranaki could no longer keep his feelings in control and dared to make advances to Pihanga. A mighty conflict between Tongariro and Taranaki ensued, which shook the foundations of the earth. The mountains belched forth their anger and darkness clouded the sky.

When peace finally came to the land, Tongariro, considerably lowered in height, stood close by Pihanga's side. Taranaki, wild with grief and anger, tore himself from his roots with a mighty wrench and left his homeland.

Weeping, he plunged recklessly towards the setting sun, gouging out the Whanganui River as he went and, upon reaching the ocean, turned north. While he slumbered overnight, the Pouakai Range thrust out a spur and trapped Taranaki in the place he now rests.

source: http://www.newplymouthnz.com

Any attempt to climb this beast is an arduous affair as any who have climbed a volcano can testify with a relentless 30 degree wall of scree that covers the upper slopes. In addition, the potentially icy conditions and fast changing weather systems make the climb hazardous with a slip at the wrong moment resulting in a ride down one of the many cliffs and gullies - many ill prepared climbers have met their maker as a result.

Departing the DOC center at the lazy hour of 9am, I'v reached the 'mid point' by 10:30 which commands a stunning view across the Taranaki plateau across to Mount Ruapehu in the distance.

As expected, the climb gets much more difficult on the upper reaches and on clearing the well maintained wooden tramping boards which protect the fauna, it's up onto the pumous scree slopes for some one step forward, two steps back action. With lots of atino rangatiratanga (self determination), I harness the power of Taranaki and power through, scrambling over the razor sharp lava flow that covers the upper cone and to the summit. An exhilerating climb and what a view.

....surfs up

Taranaki’s wild coastline dishes up some of the country’s best surf with epic drops, fast barrels and a host of adrenalin-pumping rides within an hour’s drive of the city centre. Just south of New Plymouth, the beautiful coastal resort of Oakura Beach attracts surfers with good sandbank breaks at high tide, while near the tiny township of Warea, Stent Road is one of New Zealand’s undisputed surfing hot spots. Heavy swells pound this boulder-strewn bay from most directions, creating consistently good surf and a superb right-hander that breaks over a shallow reef.

All these factors attracted the 2007 Hyundai National Surf Championships which as luck would have it started on the day I arrived in New Plymouth. The event was held at one of 3 breaks depending on the swell that day - Graveyards, Stent Road, or Rocky Point - all within 15kms of each other. Twenty eight year old maori Daniel Kereopa of Raglan has today won the Open Men’s Division which kept the east coast crew quiet for a change. A ery enjoyable 2 days were spent masquerading as Surf NZ freelance photographer sneaking free bbq food and a couple of beers.

On the way back to Auckland, I was lucky enough to be taken to a Maori tungi (funeral) by the chap who gave me a lift. Only first stopping off at his friends for a cup of tea and some spots (no explanation forthcoming). It was real honour to be able to attend this ceremony. I was asked not to talk about it so that tale ends here.

Rainbow Warrior

i te kore, ki te po, ki te ao marama

from nothing, into the darkness, into the world of light

One last burning desire to satisfy but this one lies not in the upper atmos but 27 metres beneath the waves. Located in the Bay of Islands close to the town of Pahia, the Greenpeace ex-flag ship The Rainbow Warrior lies upright on the ocean floor close to Motutapere Island. How it got here is an interesting tale and another test of Anglo-French relations....

On the 10th of July 1985 at 23:49, French Secret Service agents bombed and sank the Rainbow Warrior whilst she was docked in Auckland harbour. Greenpeace protestors had been preparing her for departure to Moruroa Atoll in the South Pacific where the French were planning continued nuclear testing. Two limpet mines were attached to the hull and exploded within two minutes of one another resulting in the death of Portuguese photographer Fernando Pereira.

The French initially denied any involvement even though more than a dozen secret service agents were in the country at the time. After increased pressure and a failed attempt to blame Mi6 for the attack, the French Prime Minister Laurent Fabius finally admitted that the French Secret Service had been ordered to sink the Rainbow Warrior. Two agents held in Auckland took the fall, and were charged with arson and murder and sentenced to 10 years imprisonment. The French were ordered to pay New Zealand $13 million NZ dollars and apologise. The two agents found guilty were sent to French Polynesia to Hao Atoll to serve their short sentences in paradise. These sentences were unlikely to have been completed and it's much more likely that these agents were back in France before the year was out.

The Rainbow Warrior was re-floated after the attack and finally transported to Motutapere Island where she has become an artificial reef attracting an abundance of wildlife and divers alike.

The ships hull is still remarkably intact with the bow rails provide a picturesque backdrop for photographers, the Greenpeace emblem of the white dove of peace still visible at stern and the blast hole in the keel is still clearly visible on the starboard side. Despite promises of other websites we found it impossible to fully penetrate the wreck to explore further as a tangle of wires and cables were criss crossed across the entrance to the hull on the upper deck making this a hazardous opportunity.

Now covered in colourful pink and blue anemones, the wreck attracks a great deal of marine life - leatherjackets, demoiselles, snappers and wrasses followed us as we headed from the stern mooring to the bow. The kelp gardens that covered the ship flowed back and forth in the surge and white growths like bonsai trees protruded from the hull and rails. A flash of colour attracted our attention and lights revealed purple and white Jason mirablis & Tambja Tambja verconis nudibranchs in the branches of the hydroids and on the rails.

So, with all the fun and adventure done, before I left NZ for Australia I finally completed and launched what I can only describe as the greatest job search website for backpackers on this earth that has ever been and ever will be - honestly, it will change your life AND make you more attractive to the opposite sex, check it out - http://www.joblink.net.nz. It was probably the poorest paid job I'd ever undertaken having earnt more as a butchers hand at the spritely age of 15 but I was happy to finally have it done.

E noho rā for now, see you in Australia.

On 2 October 2006 I embarked on my last adventure in New Zealand with my new found German friends Heike (the love interest), Benno and Sandra. Mode of transport is Heike’s new campervan, a 1983 Mazda Bongo purchased from a friend (Charlie) from the hostel, friend as his promises that this was a sound purchase proved to be worth as much as the paper it wasn’t written on. Ce la vie.

The adventure begins with a 12 hour overnight coach to Wellington to catch up with the gang, painful to say the least but some banter with some dudes on the bus makes it easier. Blue Bridge ferry ticket already in hand (a cool $240!!), we waste no time and catch the afternoon ferry to the south island. Sayounara North Island!

We arrive in Picton after the 3 hour crossing, the beautiful myriad of inlets and islands that make up the Marlborough Sounds are shrouded in cloud and hidden from view. Picton is a small nowhere town it seems whose only purpose is to accommodate the ferry passengers so we make a beeline to Nelson en-route cruising through the vineyards that the region is famed for.

Nelson is a small town populated by artists and hippy types so the slow paced lifestyle is an instant hit with us. We stay at the BBH hostel ‘Paradiso’, an oasis in a troubled world featuring a hot spa (apparently the standard in these parts), swimming pool, hammocks and a funky green bus parked in the bottom of the garden which serves as a smoking/drinking venue all day and night plus any slots between. If you’re thinking of New Zealand as a cold, mountainous country then you’re missing a half the story – this is the sub-tropics baby, yeah - 25ºc, blue skies, glorious! Unfortunately, it wasn’t set to last.

- breakfast in the Green Bus, Paradiso.

- graffiti, Nelson

With adventure on our minds, we head north along Highway 60 to check out the highlight of the region Abel Tasman National Park. En route we make an overnight stop at the small yet beautiful Kiwiana run by a rather eccentric spinster cat-crazy lady, and pass through Motueka and Kaiteriteri, finally arriving in Marahau. We enjoy our first taste of what Abel Tasman has to offer – golden sandy beaches, crystal blue waters and pristine coastline and lots of lazing around.

- Benno

After much debate and many coffees, we opt for a days guided kayaking with Kiwi Kayaks, an overnight stay in the DOC hut then a hike out the next day. The trip starts the next morning so we bed down for the night at Old McDonalds Farm (ee-i-ee-i-o). Taking on cooking duties for the night, I produce a delightful Tarte-e-Flette (?) - it gets a bit chilly in the kitchen so I close the window, never mind the lack of walls, doh!

An early morning start, we meet up with our guide for the day at Marahau Beach and are sped off in a water taxi to the starting point of the kayak adventure - Onetahuti Beach. We kick-off with a safety briefing (Eskimo rolls, Orca defence techniques etc) and drink the all important cup of tea – I like this guy! Without further ado we paddle (with style and grace, ahem) across to Tonga Island to check out the resident Fur Seals. With breeding season in full flight, we spot some pups climbing on the rocks and basking in the shallow bays – how cute, if only I had my club with me.

On the look out for Orcas, dolphins and stingrays (none of which I’m sad to say made an appearance) we paddle down the coast past Mosquito Bay (no mosquitoes live here), Bark Bay (no dogs live here) and Sandfly Bay (LOTS of sandflys live here, all over Abel Tasman infact, horrid little things) finishing up in our final destination for the day – Torrent Bay – home of the 5-star DOC Anchorage Hut. The coastline is unbelievable – golden sand beaches, crystal clear blue waters, blue skies – so beautiful!

After an uncomfortable night (I forgot my sleeping bag) and experiencing what I can only explain as an alien encounter (a mysterious floating red light floating over the water way above the horizon) we set off on the trek back to base. More golden beaches and secluded bays, the human traffic gets a little heavy as the morning presses on but is bearable – I can’t quite imagine what this like in the summer with 100x the numbers.

Some of the beaches are simply incredible and you have to keep reminding yourself where you are – I’ve never been to Thailand (yet) but I hope it lives up to this!

After a well earnt cup of tea at the end of trail, we head further north to the most northerly point of the South Island ‘Farewell Spit’, stopping en route at the famous land mark Split Apple Rock. A word of warning if you ever visit do not attempt to climb the rocks to the left side for a closer look as Gannets next in the trees above and defend their nest site with tenacious ferocity.

Farewell Spit itself is a 50km ish long exposed sand bar home to many varieties of sea bird and fully exposed to the might of the Tasman Sea, however any venture along it must be arranged with a guide with a rather hefty price tag so we decide to explore the beaches to the west and find an absolute cracker - Cape Farewell. With nobody else insight we trek just 1km from the road to find a dramatic wind swept landscape of rolling sand dunes and huge rocky outcrops with only ourselves and a few fur seals for company. Stunning!

Our northern experience fulfilled, we begin on our journey south along the west coast first heading back inland to Nelson (no roads link to the west coast highway) but no harm as the an overnight stop at Paradiso is always a good thing,
The journey confirms New Zealand’s ‘all weather in one day’ tag as we leave basking in sunshine, hitting cloud, then fog, rain which then turns into hale then snow and back to sunshine again, strange. The first town we reach on the west coast is a rather unimpressive Westport then onto Greymouth which is equally enthralling although I bumped into an old work colleague (Lindsey) from my days @ GSK, Harlow. Random!

50kms south the weather closes in which unfortunately follows us for the next 7 days, but it makes the coast line all the more dramatic. We rest overnight at Punakaiki Beach Hostel next to the sacred Maori site come tourist attraction ‘Punakaiki Rocks’ or Pancake rocks as it is known which features rocks that resemble a stack of pancakes (shocker!) and some blow holes.

The next major town south is Hokitika famous for Jade (Green Stone). We stay at Just Jade Experience, the Jade ‘experience’ itself is quite laughable in that you choose a shape for your pendant carved by the owner of the hostel then you spend the next 8 hours sanding and polishing - we gave it a miss and went to the pub instead craving some laughs and indulgence.

The next town south is one of New Zealand’s most famous attractions – the Franz Josef Glacier. The town is unimpressive but serves its purpose. We arrange a day hike with a guide to trek up the glacier and explore the blue ice wonders. The view from the bottom gives the impression that the glacier is dirty ice but this is just where the rock and debris collect before discharging (at up to a rate of 1.5 meters per day!). Once you hike for an hour or so the ice becomes cleaner, in places translucent up to a foot or so, still not a touch on the glacier at Chamonix!

As we head south, the van breaks down (one of many to come) 30kms outside of Haast in the middle of nowhere with no phone signal, but no matter two extremely helpful kiwi dudes come to our rescue towing us off the road and driving to the Haast to arrange a tow truck. Such nice people! So we are rescued and the van fixed within the hour (a blow fuse, doh!) so we head inland through the cloud shrouded Southern Alps to Wanaka. According to the map we pass by New Zealand’s highest peak ‘Mount Cook’ however it is obscured from view by dense cloud – one of my biggest regrets but a good reason to return.

Wanaka is a cool little town situated next to a lake it feels like a laid back version of Queenstown and serves as home for mountain monkeys who ride at Treble Cone. Unfortunatley Snow Park (a purpose built snowboard freestyle mecca with jumps ranging from big to insane) closed for the season the day we arrive but probably saved my shoulder (sorry, not again!). A novelty stop at the edge of town well worth a visit is Puzzling World which is a collection of puzzles, optical illusions and trickery, quite unique and thoroughly enjoyable.

After a couple of days chilling out we head to Queenstown, home of every adrenaline sport under the sun including the first ever Bungy Jump. Reading the history of the bungy you can only offer respect for these crazy pioneers who must have had balls of steel to test out their invention. I sit out but Benno drops from NZ’s highest a 134m monster called ‘The Nevis High Wire’. Crazy!

Next on the list is Fiordland where you can take cruises through the dramatic landscape carved by glaciers. Visiting Doubtless Sound first, named by Captain Cook who doubted there’d be sufficient wind to sail through which should be replaced with the modern version ‘I doubt you can afford the trip’. Instead, we head to the more affordable Milford Sound, torrential rain lashes down making it hard to appreciate the grandeur scale of the surrounding cliffs but instead the place comes alive with waterfalls crashing down from seemingly every cliff top. We take a boat trip and you get a sense of how intimidating the place is, shame about the grey light but fun all the same.

Time a ticking, we decide to miss the tip of the South and cut across to Dunedin, a town which feels like it should be in France. People rave about the place - it was nice but didn’t blow my mind. We visit landmarks like the Otago Peninsula famed for it’s resident Albatross population and Yellow Penguins, the Otago Museum with a special exhibit for Wildlife Photographer of the Year, and Baldwin Street which is the steepest street in the world (1 – 2.86 gradient). Sadly for me the highlight was a local graffiti artist who created silhouette type art all over the city which interact in some way with their surroundings, very clever!

On the first attempt to leave town the van develops a strange grinding noise, as a result of the leaking engine coolant requiring the water pump to be replaced - not an easy thing on Labour Day weekend but we are saved but a legend called Mike who not only saves the day with the van but also arranges us some essential supplies.

With the van fixed (for now) we head north following the East Coast road through spectacular scenery. We arrive at a Oamaru which is famous for hosting the largest breeding colony of Blue Penguins, a very timid and fragile creature. Not sure what to expect we investigate and find a wooden amphitheatre which faces the sea where the penguins land. The penguins must then hop, skip and jump their way over the rocks across the road into their protected nest site consisting of a series of partially buried wooden boxes. It all feels a bit too much like a circus and we have to wait till nightfall anyhow to see the ‘show’ so we decide to give it a miss.

Just up the coast is a rather bizarre spectacle the Moeraki Boulders which are a series of giant boulders with crystals inside. Many theories exist to explain the phenomena - Maori legend says the boulders were tossed from the sea by an angry god, some claim that they are dinosaur eggs, or perhaps a game of giant bowls that was never finished. The truth may lie in geology which says that they were created within the layers of sedimentary rock (limestone) and then eroded from the cliff over time - far less romantic than the Maori version!

With the rain still on our backs we speed north to the largest city on the South Island - Christchurch. We visit the Art Gallery which features some great exhibits Kiwi artists and then to the Arts Centre to find the famous ‘floating house’ sculpture that is pictured in the Lonely Planet guide book. After following a maze of corridors we finally arrive at the place and are presented with a gigantic sign ’here it is’. It does look very cool but it opened a can of worms as to how unique traveling experiences can be if all we do is follow the guidebooks and tick boxes like it’s an eye spy adventure. Oops, sorry wrong soap box. We are feeling rather fatigued with city life and decide to head north back to the great outdoors.

Following the highway north we hit Kaikoura which for me was the highlight of the South Island (save the best till last!). Shadowed by the snow capped Kaikoura Mountain range, the town is very small with only a handful of backpackers, hotels and a collection of cafes & bars, but what makes Kaikoura unique lies under the surface of the sea. 2 kilometers offshore is the continental shelf of the South Pacific tectonic plate which means depths of over 1500m just offshore, a phenomena usually encountered way out to sea. In addition, the shelf is shaped such that it creates a huge underwater inlet which acts as an overstocked larder of all kinds of tiny shrill and plankton. Both of these factors attract whales in abundance – Sperm Whales are resident all year round throughout the seasons you can expect to see Grey, Humpback, Southern Right and the mighty Blue Whale.

We took a sightseeing tour which is a very touristy affair and a little expensive at just over $100 but well worth it. Within 2 hours we saw 6 different Sperm Whales basking on the surface before they make their dive into the depths – just remember to take a camera with a large zoom if you can. I cannot understand how mankind continues to hunt these graceful creatures, gazing into their eyes as they swim by reveals an intelligence eons beyond that of a fish or perhaps even us. To boot, on the trip we are treated to a fine display of acrobatics by a pod of Dusky Dolphins. It still sends shivers up my spine when I think of this day, spectacular!!

The next day I awake to a glorious view of the Kaikoura mountain range from the back of the campervan – truly I feel spoilt to experience this.

The previous day I spotted a sign at the local airport to pilot a plane for the bargain price of $100 – how could I resist. True to word, I book my session and we speed off to the airport. My vehicle for the day is a single prop Cessna 150 which can hold 2 passengers aswell as pilot & co so I take Sandra and Heike up with me. The frighteningly young pilot takes the reigns for take off and landing but I do the rest as we cruise over the town of Kaikoura following the coast line then inland following the mountain range. As we rise above the tips of the mountains we hit turbulence which throws the plane into a spasm, pitching every which way possible and turning my fellow passengers a pale shade of green. I manage to regain control but there’s another scare in store as we circle around to return to base as I forget about the altitude and begin to pitch forward. The good news is we survived and are more than relived to have our feet back on the ground. Presented with my certificate I am now the proud owner of 0.25 hours flying experience – only another 300 or so before I get my pilots license, or maybe not.

So with a short sprint up to the Malborough Sounds and the ferry across from Picton to Wellington, that brings the South Island Oktober Fest adventure to a close. As we sail north a new month begins that will no doubt be full of suprises, but New Zealand is not finished yet...

We arrive in Wellington, capital city of New Zealand and stay for a couple of days at Nomads Capital, the sister hostel of the beloved Fat Camel, and find that the old faithful from Auckland are here in abundance, that and a hundred or so beer swilling monsters here for the Rugby Seniors World Cup. Absolute carnage ensues but I find that 6 weeks on the road has lessened my alcohol tolerance which means an early exit on the session and a whacking hangover the next day. But it’s great to see old friends once again and a good time had by all.

The last leg of the journey is to be re-visit probably my favourite place in New Zealand – Gisborne and the East Cape. We make a quick stop off in Napier (art deco central) staying at a quaint hostel called Toad Hole backpackers, part backpackers, part wine bar, part art gallery (yes, it’s run by ageing hippies). True to form the van breaks down again but finally we meet a mechanic worth his weight in grease – he spots that the battery is 1/5 of the power it should be and likely the source of all the electrical problems that have hounded us for the last 6 weeks. Charlie, a friend, death threats are etched in blood on the receipt.

Gisborne is just a short drive north along S35, the gateway to the East Cape. Glorious sunshine awaits us and yet again I fall in love with the place. The Surfers Lodge hostel has closed unfortunately so we’re forced into staying at probably the weirdest backpackers I’ve ever seen called The Flying Nun. A converted ex convent, the place is run by mother superior whose paranoia on security is a farce – a myriad of combination locks secures the outside of the building, everyone is given their own secure cupboard for food and another for your assigned 1 plate, 1 bowl, 1 cup etc. I was glad to leave before we were all smited by an unseen force.

The next day we arise to find that the engine coolant emptied itself which turns out to be a split bottom hose. Thanks to some top blokes at the local garage, Benno and I get to work and within 2 hours we’ve stripped the engine down and replaced the hose. They say you learn a lot when you travel but I never thought I’d become a mechanic.

Before heading north we grab coffee and I’m stopped in the street by a reporter from the Gisborne Herald to comment on the Sterne Report as to whether New Zealand can become world leaders in sustainability. My facts are drawn straight from the Rough Guide but I sound pretty clever I think, for an Englishman.

From Gisborne we work our way around the East Cape passing stunning golden sandy beaches, isolated coves, hot springs and not another traveler in sight. A brush with the Mongrel Mob (NZ’s equivalent of the Hells Angels) in Marahau Bay leaves no scars, we miss the sun rise at the East Cape but enjoy a lie in and we learn of the farce of the inadequacy and disastrous effect 1080 poison which is used to control the possum population has on the whole ecosystem. Oh, and Heike is looking mighty fine.

One final stop off before I leave this blessed land at the Coromandel Peninsula, another stunning gem with more golden sandy beaches, coves, quaint towns and two famous landmarks Cathedral Cove and Hot Water Beach, the latter being a hot spring on the beach where you dig a whole and it fills with scorching hot water, so crazily hot I burnt my feet. My good friend Rob joins us for the final fling and we pickle our kidneys in true Auckland style.

Road trip over, 6 months been and gone, many friends made and many more brain cells lost. I had such a great time here and would love to return, perhaps next year so I can actually snowboard instead of being sat in a hospital (doh, just one last mention). No gripes except to say please stay Kiwi and forget the American influence, that sucks and the Maori heritage is priceless, R&B and 50 cents is a gift from hell, just so no.. Rant over, I close this blog as I could go on forever much is the love but I’m writing this ending from a steaming hot hotel room in Sape, Sumbawa, Indonesia which I‘m sure you’d rather hear about than Jerry’s Final Thought. Next stop the tropics.....

Firstly the shoulder saga. After much internal turmoil and a worldwide internet referendum, I agreed to be treated in New Zealand. The travel insurance company came up with the goods and coughed up a metaphorical blank cheque (apparently it was cheaper than flying me home – ha ha wait till they see the final bill). With some cunning bargaining and emotional blackmail by an ex-pat doctor named Andrew Tyson, I was referred to one of the best orthopedic surgeons currently operating in New Zealand - Dr Clayton Brown .

With a little pressure applied I was fast-tracked through and on the 3rd August after only 8 weeks after first visiting the doc, surgery was to be done at MercyAscot Hospital escorted on the day by my old friend Andrew Sammut who’d popped into town to amuse himself at my approaching disability.

The hospital was more like a hotel, thankfully missing the rank disinfectant smell that fills the corridors of NHS hell that somehow makes me faint (Haggis – remember Brixton BMX track incident). After de-robing I met my pilot and landing crew (Anesthetist) for today’s flight was Psycho Steve who delivered a brachial plexus block (the stranger) followed by a General anaesthetic and I was out for the count.

I've no idea what happened next but here's what the doc said:

There was some capsular redundancy, and therefore due to the fact that I wanted to tighten the anterior capsule it was decided to perform an open approach through a short deltopectoral incision taking the conjoined tendon medially and exposing the subscapularis which was taken down as a rectangular exposing the labral defect. This was fashioned using an elevator and repaired using twin fix anchors and an excellent labral repair was achieved from superior to inferior.

I guess that means it went well.

(full report available here if you can make any sense of it let me know

I awoke with a drain coming from my shoulder with blood dripping down into the attached bottle. Another tube running into my neck attached to a bag labeled PainBuster© with a plunger attached – self-administered medication, I like it. In my left-arm is a drip with other substances being fed intravenously, I’m beginning to feel like a lab rat but before I can climb out of bed and bolt for freedom the nurses are upon me and with a squeeze of the plunger I drift of to Never-Never land.

Over the next 12 hours I followed pretty much the same pattern, only in the glimpses between slumber I endured some frighteningly realistic hallucinations with all manner of people entering my private room and surrounding my bed, some dead, some alive, but all highly talkative and some abusive. Not enjoying the morphine at all now. Sleep, please.

I was discharged the next morning, after an assisted shower with an attractive Kiwi nurse (arm pits are very hard to wash one-handed you know – try it!!) The days that followed were pretty crazy with mad hallucinations from the Morphine & Tremadol. Irrational, short tempered, mood swings – I was worried I was going to grow breasts next. The PainBuster© ran out after 3 days I went into Morphine withdrawal, not surprising after a continual supply of the stuff for the last 72 hours. Removing the Painbuster was quite amusing discovering that under the plaster on my neck was a 6 inch tube that ran straight down the main vein to my arm (thanks for removing that Andrew!). Anyhow, that night I took what proved to be my last Morphine night cap - the trip was that bad I couldn’t face a repeat and flushed the rest away. It was time for recovery not soma holidays and I figured the pain was all part and parcel of the process.

So 3 months and $24,000 (₤8,000) later, I’m pretty much fixed up with all but a 3 inch scar on the front of my right shoulder. The official physiotherapy has fallen by the way side a little but good news the self-diagnosed alternative remedies seem to be working great. Now I’m ready to get back on that horse and start breaking things again - another 3 months time and I’ll be ready to strap on my trusty snowboard once more, yay!

What else? Free from the hassles of normal daily life, I needed something to occupy my mind. The first week at The Fat Camel (my home in Auckland) I spent being a good tourist visiting the tourist attractions, taking walks, chatting and eating with my room mates. I bought myself a new camera, stepping up the game with a digital SLR Nikon D50 plus a 70-300mm telephoto lense and set about cataloguing the city in 2D. Anything but step into the Hostel bar as I knew what would happen if I succumbed.

I held out for 1 week until the first Friday in June when the Fat Camel held it’s AJ Hackett Harbour Bridge Bungy challenge. Up steps camera geek here and volunteers to take pictures of the day. The pictures are amazing despite my amateurish skills and I burn a CD for all.

So how else to celebrate but with a pint, bought from each person, 12 people makes 12 pints. Oh dear, what a messy affair. Lets just say the truth serum worked it’s magic and before I knew it all knew my story and I was welcomed into the bosom of the Fat Camel and it’s alcoholic residents and became part of the furniture. (Andy – you did warn me, it happened, so wise, so wise.)

The marketing manager of the hostel, the infamous alcoholic Kate Cooper (she came to Auckland 2 years ago for a holiday and never left), loved the Bungy pictures so much she insisted that as her in-house professional (ha ha) photographer I’d be the perfect person to take the photos for the new Hostel Brochure and website. No problem, so with payment of a few nights free accommodation and a $50 bar tab (the first, definitely not the last) and did the job. Top banana, the pics are awesome and they get published in the brochure.

And there is born the game I played for the next 4 months – Live for Free! It’s simple really – a resident (non-traveling) traveler has 3 basic needs: accommodation, food, and entertainment (alcohol/substances). The object is of the game is easy – pay for nothing. You have to work of course but this can be kept to an absolute bare minimum (to nil) with some cunning ingenuity, general blagging and minor deception. One rule, any criminal activity (theft through deception from financially stable companies is ok) or actions that cause harm, upset or personal loss to a person are strictly prohibited! i.e. no bad karma.

So, here’s how I did:

>> Make friends with chef at the Hostel (Graham) - Free breakfast & evening meal

>> Taking photos for Hostel marketing - $50 bar tab per job plus 3 free nights accommodation

>> Working at reception – by far my worst ‘scam’ at only $11 per hour (before tax!), take home $320 per week. Fringe and soft benefits endless tho like being bought beers by ‘discounted’ guests, giving myself free nights or a double room on demand, printing free bar tabs, choosing who stays in my dorm (profile = Swedish, female, 21 etc etc)

>> Winning competitions in the bar – I only played killer or regular pool and became known as ‘Master of the Double’ or the ‘One Armed Wonder’. Winning earnt yourself a $30 bar tab, sky jump or bungy jump - I gave away both activities because of my arm but drank the bar tabs.

>> The Bottomless Bar Tab – win yourself a bar tab legitimately then use all but the last drink on it so it is never registered in the till. Then print a new one, fake the signature and use it again with a different bar tender. Free beer & bourbon, happy days!

>> Corrupt a bar tender – it didn’t require any influence from me as the bar tender in The Camel (Jace) was on self-destruct anyhow but nonetheless I made the most of it. He got the sack after 5 weeks of a 100% free bar.

>> Website Consultancy – The Fat Camel has two websites: one for the hostel; one for the bar – none of which anyone had a clue how to update. $30 bar tab for 1 hours work.

>> Network & PC maintenance – upgrading computers, installing programs, security patches etc, re-cabling, manage gateway, consolidation, selling old stuff on http://www.trademe.co.nz. 1 night accommodation for 1 hours work.

>> Re-write Travel Center’s website Joblink (http://www.joblink.net.nz) – essentially create a new ‘skin’, optimize the code, add some new features and launch the site. 1 night accommodation for 1 hours work, totaling 50 hours or so.

>> Promotions for Stray & Spaceships (http://www.straytravel.com) – officially I worked 40 hours promoting the Stray Free City Tour which earnt me a free South Island bus pass. Actually I did only 1.5 hours and instead promoted it when working the reception and recommending Stray to every hapless traveler.

>> Selling Stray and Magic bus passes – not officially part of my reception job but nice to help out. Each pass sold is rewarded with a $25 voucher, plus free beers, use of a Spaceship for trip to Piha etc.

>> Hang around on on Fort Street- I lived in the middle of the red light district with all kinds of social misfits, deviants and the legitimate side of the criminal world - talk to the right people. It’s amazing who I associated with ranging from bar tenders to pimps and prostitutes, all of whom can save your ass or make your night depending. Just re-pay the favours and all is sweet as.

But it’s not all work, work, work and there’s always plenty of time for fun. Oh boy there was a lot of that. From what I can remember, here’s the highlights:

>> World Cup – bloody germans! Reversed my body clock because of the time difference for 3 weeks – wake each night at 7pm, go to bed at 8am

>> Ireland Vs All Blacks – it seems an age ago now but in July I went to watch the mighty All Blacks at Eden Park. Not so mighty that night as Ireland almost sneaked a victory but great to watch. Shame about the torrential downpour but I had my first ‘meat stick’ so all good.

>> Porn Weekend – crazy sex, debauchery, hedonism and general indulgence like I’ve never seen before. Starting on the Wednesday with a midday topless porn star parade down the main street to promote the launch of Erotica Expo 2006.

Myself, Tony and Rob were snapped by a New Zealand Herald reporter and made it to page 2 of the national paper the next day!

Every night that week crazy parties went off with more sex, sleaze, mass indulgence of party pills (BZP) and alcohol, not just by us hostelites but seemingly by the entire population of Auckland. The highlight had to be Barry @ Base Bar’s Porn Night sporting a tiny ‘Sex Police’ uniform tanked on enough party pills to supply a Helter Skelter rave, hee hee.

>> Photos published in international press – my special friend Andrea De La Barra, ex-super sleuth reporter for the Metro in Chile wrote a news paper article about living in Auckland which was published. 4 of my pictures from taken around Auckland were used for the article – alas no money exchanged hands for the pictures but another one for the portfolio nonetheless.

>> Travel & Tourism Industry night – free booze and shenanigans at the expense of The Man. Always a crazy time especially after the punch hits the floor. Hosted by Little Jimmy (resident midget at The Globe Bar).

>> Soccer - unfortunate that we had to call it soccer but the roots began on Independence Day, hence US name 'soccer, but it just stuck from that. It started as a one off World Cup special but ran for a further 12 weeks such was the success. The brain child of myself, Chile (chris) and Tony...

>> Eastland - Bay of Plenty Road Trip

July 10th. I spent a few days with Gemma and her 2 friends Maggi and Shaheen travelling around the East Cape of New Zealand. Starting in Hawkes Bay, following Highway 35 around the coast road through Gisborne, Whangara, Tologa Bay (where Captain Cook landed in 1769), Hicks Bay, Whangaparaoa, Waihau Bay, Whakatane (out at sea smoke rises from the highly volcanic White Island) and back to Auckland via Mount Manganui and Tauranga.

By far the most beautiful places I’ve been to in New Zealand. It’s slight isolation and crumbling, wash outs (where the road crumbles away in a landlside) roads deter people on a tight schedule. The area is dominantly Maori, the only place in the country like it which makes it feel all the more real New Zealand.

Highlights of the trip were:

- The Beach north of Gisborne. Amazing surf and wind swept beaches. Even a cheeky dip in the sea.

- The longest pier in New Zealand. It was very long.

- Sunrise at the East Cape

A solo mission out to the most easterly point of New Zealand – The East Cape, according to the books I’d be the first person in the world to see the new day but I expect some of the islanders would dispute that. Anyway, I was still driving when the sun rose at just after 6am, just missed it.

A little despondent, I took a walk on the beach practically tripping over a seal trying to escape into the sea. I had stumbled into the middle of a seal colony. Amazing!

- Macadamia Nut Cafe

A cute place with a Macadamia nut orchard, a café making it’s own Macadamia & white chocolate chip cookies. The weather was glorious, a great setting, great view, great company, a great end to the trip.

>> Waikato & Rotorua Road Trip

A quick 3 day trip with Sinead (my friend from the Fat Camel). Starting in Waitomo for some some Black Water Rafting (clambering around underground caves in a wet suit and floating along underground streams on a rubber ring) and seeing the amazing Glow Worms.

Afterwards what better than a trip to the Angora Wool shop to see how they get the wool. Truly barbaric – the place the rabbit on what can only be described as a rack, then rotated like a pig on a spit roast and shaved of its valuable fur. We were shocked.

Across to Rotorua staying again at Hot Rocks Hostel, but first enjoying a dip in a secret outdoor Hot Spring 20kms out of town.

Visited Te Whakarewarewa thermal area with its amazing geysers and took in a traditional Maori performance in a Marau (meeting house).

Lastly, persuaded by Sinead we stopped at Wai Ora Spa for a mud bath and dip in the natural sulphur hot springs. It made my skin feel dry and my eyes red and sore for hours – I can’t see how this is a good thing but an experience nonetheless.

http://www.travellerspoint.com/photos/originals/47221/Sinead+Phi..p%20(113).jpg

Finally across to Whakatane. Next to the harbour stands a statue of Wairaka, the maori heroine who saved a bunch of kumara from floating away in a waka (canoe). Tried again to book a dive to White Island where you can see underwater steam vents, crazy big tube worms that thrive on the sulphur enriched water, a little pricy at $360 for 2-tank dive with hire of gear but apparently a once in a lifetime opportunity so why not. The answer, no trips running due to bad weather, pah.

On the drive back to Auckland we were treated to an awesome sunset. An explosive relationship with Sinead and we actually end up as worse enemies but sometimes things go this way.

>> Piha

A beautiful surf town only 2 hours drive West of Auckland yet so unspoilt (the local council has enforced a development freeze that looks set to last). Took a ride out there in a freebie Spaceship (people-carrier meets campervan, highly recommended!) courtesy of Craig from Stray. Took a nice stroll on the main beach, up and over to secret White Beach for a quick dip in the 14ºc waters (brrr) before heading to the local pub for a slap-up ‘fush and chups’ dinner all in the company of great friends (Robin, Heike, Benno, oh and Shaneen. Perfect!

>> More photography

The kind people at http://www.travellerspoint.com selected 2 of my pictures (out of a total of approx 50,000) for their Photograph of the Year 2006 competition, the photos selected were not those I would have chosen but there you go. Unfortunately, I didn’t make the final 12 after an online vote but a great complement to be selected nonetheless.

I think I’ve found my new love and maybe a new career, I just need to figure out how to convert the pictures to cash and I’ll be a happy man. Answers on a postcard please…

Some other pics from around Auckland:

- city skyscapes

- getting to grips with shapes ;o)

- sports photography

- graffiti

>> Last but not least the endless crazyness in the Fat Camel hostel, endless drinks – jager bombs, tui’s exports, bourbons, illusions, tequila, black sambuca & drambui, happy hours, free drinks, party pills, breakbeat parties at Club Met, brothels, lap dancing and naked pool at The White House and Mermaids, pool games galore (one-handed killer champion no less). Such a great time here and the people so welcoming I’m sure some of us will meet again for sure. I’d list all the names but there’s just too many and they’re of no interest to the casual reader so why bother. Maybe I’ll get round to listing them one day, but a picture paints a thousand words….

So, it’s time to leave Auckland now that the arm is well on the mend and only 2 months ish left on my round the world ticket. (Hmm, I don’t thin k that’s long enough.) The south island remains virgin territory and I’ve hooked with some lovely Germans (yeah, they do exist) – Heike, Sandra and Benno Scheip from Stuttgart in one very special van. Another tale in the making to bring my stay in New Zealand to an end. Watch this space and thanks for reading.

Love & Peace

Phil x